enfinblue's Bluey (credit to Fifi for the nickname!) Diaryland Diary

"I am seeking, I am striving, I am in it with all my heart." -Vinc3nt V@n Gogh

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I am short on time..

I can't believe I didn't write about yesterday's tour!!

Yesterday was a lovely day. But it was a reminder that this trip is drawing to a close and I shall have to go back to reality soon. :( Boo Hoo!

Yesterday morning Joan called quite early, which was nice.

She wanted to meet for a coffee. Meeting for a coffee with Joan is always terrific, since she doensn't really mean "coffee." I mean, usually we will sit down, but often we will shop or wander first, and then she will dish the dirt on life. She's quite a crazy woman, I've discovered. I had thought she was more lonely or sad before. In reality, she has very fixed opinions about things and is very determined. She's quite hysterical, really. And always a laugh to sit about with in a piazza.

So yesterday we had meant to meet for coffee on the Tuornboni and it turned into trying on clothes at Hugo Boss, and then to strolling up the via dei Servi towards the Annuziata. We had intended to make it a short coffee, but the coffee strolled into lunch and vino and then we were ready for class.

For class we were visiting the Hospital of the Innocents, or one of Brunelleschi's masterworks. It is an exquisite building, really - all shapes and lined porticos, with Della Robbia swaddled babies in the roundels. I learned some things about the square that I didn't know, e.g. about the Servite building across the square.

Inside the hospital - now mostly the offices of unicef - there were such touching reminders of the poor children who were dropped off there. Joan was a bit pissed (her background is in social history) that our guide didn't emphasize that the hospital sort of existed for men's convenience, i.e. so that men could drop off their "baaahstahd children after they forced themselves on servant girls and the like."

Joan is a character.

Of course, that wasn't the whole deal, but our art historian leader (the director of the BI's art history institution, who is married to an Italian and actually very nice), tended to emphasize the soft side of things. But of course he is an art historian and not a historian.

Inside the main courtyard of the ospedale there is a BEAUTIFUL large semi-circular della Robbia workshop piece of the annuciation. My favourite! And Mary and Rafaello are surrounded by a host of baby angel faces. So beautiful!

Many of the works of art from the church have been removed to a museum in the upstairs of the hospital now, and there are also relics there inclusive of some heartbreaking items that were left in the 15th century with the children, by people who were hoping to identify them and pick them up later on (i.e. when they could afford to pick them up, etc.). Most of the coins and ribbons etc. were in halves, since the other half would have remained with the parent. SO sad, really. There is also a terrific painting in there by Ghirlandaio of the masscre of the innocents.

Then we went to the octagonal former church called degli Angeli. It's now a language school and the interior hasn't kept to Renaissance principles. I was rather disappointed with the people who butchered it.

So much art. So little time! How will I leave in four days.

By the way, the Donatello lecture was quite good last night. It was given by an American at Columbia. Even the starchy Brits seemed relatively pleased. :) There was one ghastly dude there who was clearly Italian but who was wearing 1) cuorduroy with a linin jacket! ; and 2) affecting a posh British accent. Eew!

So...I shouldn't be so hard on the crusty Brits. The expats here though are incredibly ridiculous. Honestly, you would think you were in the 19th century still (or very early 20th) and had a Reverand Eager describing these individuals ("He is working on fra Angelico. The definitive study, you know. Oh! And there is the villa of the American ___. He is he good type of American, fortunately.")

Anyhow...I should eat something. I regret that I have nothing nice left to wear today. Marco will be stuck with me rough and ready tonight. I think I am supposed to meet him after class for the movie and then dinner. If I buy the new dress I think it will be too poshy-like.

Oh! So much to do and so very little time. Excruciating, really.

7:01 a.m. - 2009-05-21

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